Even More Bezels- Cut-tab Bezels

Get Stoned and Cuffed- Bracelets, Creativity and the Hydraulic Press

Student Materials and Tool List

 

  Students are encouraged to create and finish 1 folded synclastic cuff in 24 gauge metal with a folded edge in class with one or more stones. Students will have the opportunity to create multiple bracelet shells that can be finished at a later date, or to various stages in the workshop. Students can form as many bracelets during the workshop as they like, or as much dictated by the amount of metal sheet available to cut bracelet blanks. Bracelets can be formed in copper alloys, sterling silver or silver-clad.  

 

General Blank sizes for use in synclastic and anticlastic freeform bracelet kits:

1 1/2” to 3” width x 6” to 8 ½” length- synclastic

1/2” to 1 1/4” width x 6 to 8 ½” length- anticlastic

 

**** The measurement ranges list above are referring to the sheet metal we will use within the bracelet kits. We will be cutting strips of sheet to the above measurements to make our bracelets, or “blanks”.

**** The bracelet kits we will be using and will be provided during the workshop are made by Bonny Doon and used exclusively in hydraulic presses.

 

>>>> I will have red brass sheet (20g - 24g), pre-made bezel cups, heavy wall tubing, fine silver bezel strip, large/free form cabochons, smaller round cabs, and some round calibrated faceted stones, textures and more available during the workshop<<<<

 

MATERIALS YOU NEED TO BRING OR PURCHASE FROM ME:

 

1. 20g, 22g, 24g Sheet - Ideal: 6” x 12” pieces of each, or student preference,  and please refer to general blank sizes. A small amount of sheet will be needed for the backsheet in creating a bezel cup for any stones.

General metals info...

*Sterling silver- Ideal! Buy by the blank size due to cost

* Double Clad Silver Filled- the look of silver without the cost

* Red Brass (aka: Nu Gold, Jeweler’s Brass, Dix’s Gold) - makes lovely gold bracelets, and nice to work with!

* Commercial Bronze

* Nickel - very hard like yellow brass, takes a great polish,  but not recommended for anyone that cannot or dislikes swinging a heavy hammer in any gauge

* Copper (soft, ideal for test or samples, not for finished work)

* Yellow Brass- hard, hard and problematic with soldering with silver
 

2. Bezel strip, premade bezels cups, and/or heavy wall tubing

* Bezel strip should be taller than the stone, if needs to be countersunk in bracelet. Students will need enough bezel strip for your chosen stone/stones.

* Premade bezel cups are nice for adding multiple stones without spending additional time. I use round 8mm and smaller.

* Heavy wall tubing for tube settings. I generally tube set round faceted stone sizes 5mm and smaller.

 

3. Stones

* Any stone can go on a cuff, but how it can attach may be limited. Students can use preferred stones.

* Calibrated round or oval cabochons are needed for premade bezel cups

* Calibrated faceted rounds for tube setting makes life easier


Where to purchase metals:

> Hauser and Miller- www.hauserandmiller.com- Offers sterling silver sheet cut to specifics widths and lengths. Best option for those that are just wanting to buy enough silver for one sterling bracelet.

> Rio Grande- www.riogrande.com- Has sterling silver available in 3” and 6” widths. 2 bracelet blanks can be cut from a 3” wide x 6” or 8.5”. Also offer double-clad silver filled sheet in 3” widths.

> Metalliferous- www.metalliferous.com- Largest selection of base metals

 

Tools:  Spruill has all of the tools and equipment we need for our workshop, and you are welcome to bring your own...

cushion for chair
jeweler’s saw
sawblades
lubricant
drill bits
flex-shaft accessories: sanding, polishing
files- standard and needle
pliers
sandpaper/sanding sticks
scotch brite/ steel wool/ abrasive pad
metal scissors/ joyce chens
divider/ruler
preferred patinas for chosen metals
delrin forming hammer or other non steel hammer for shaping cuffs- cross peen edge
goldsmithing hammer or bordering hammer for folding over edge of cuff bracelet
texture tools, stamps, textured brass plates, fabric,dapping punches, textured papers, etc. for roller printing metal blanks
soldering tools
bezel rocker/pusher/burnisher- for setting stones

oval or cuff bracelet mandrel
Camera

notebook

Even More Bezels- Cut-tab Bezels

Supply list-

Rio Grande- www.riogrande.com

JFF Jewelry Supply- Pinetree Plaza, 5269 Buford Hwy NE # 11, Doraville, GA 30340, (770) 455-1871

Hauser and Miller- www.hauserandmiller.com

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1. Sterling silver sheet 20g or 22g: for bezel back plate/structure of piece- minimum 2" x 2"
or

            * 20g sterling silver sheet- Rio Grande Order number: 100458= Qty: 3" x 2" (limited to 3" width with Rio Grande)

or

            * 22g sterling silver sheet- Rio Grande Order number: 100459= Qty: 3" x 2" (limited to 3" width with Rio Grande)

 

 

2. Sterling silver rectangular wire- for bezel wall/ height taller and thicker than traditional bezels- 12" or 1 foot
(or any preferred taller or thicker rectangular wire)

 

           * 5.0mm x 1.25mm (.196" x .049")- Rio Grande Order number: 100590

or

           * 5.0mm x 1.5mm (.196 x .059")- Rio Grande Order number: 100554

or

           * 5.0mm x 2.0mm (.196 x .078")- Rio Grande Order number: 100552

or

           * 1" x 18g sterling silver sheet (strip)- Rio Grande Order number: 100399= 6"

           (strips for bezel wall will be cut from this strip)

or
           * 1" x 20g sterling silver sheet (strip)- Rio Grande Order number: 100398= 6"
           (strips for bezel wall will be cut from this strip)

 

3. Cabochon stone(s)- for setting- ideally 13mm or larger. Round, oval or soft free-form stones are easier/faster than complex, cornered stones. This setting is great for larger, taller cabochons!

 

>>> Instructor will have some sterling silver sheet/wire/heavy wall tubing/pre-made bezel cups, etc. available for purchase during the workshop if needed. Also, stones will be available for purchase during the workshop.

 

Please feel free to bring your favorite:
1. notebook
2. camera
3. pliers- half-round/flat and round/flat
4. jeweler's saw/ saw blades/lubricant

5. mandrels (ring size)

6. silver sheet and wire (scrap too!) for appliques/ added design interest/ bail or pin assembly

7. heavy wall tubing and/or pre-made bezel cups for added stones

8. lunch/ drinks

All photography by Joanne M Hernandez. Except those with *, which are by Bart Caston.

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> Please do not steal my intellectual property for personal financial gain. I feel confident that if you gave yourself some time you could come up with something much more awesome than mine. Really. Please feel free to take any inspiration, appropriation, thoughts, and feelings my work may provide you. 

> Thank you for checking out my work and my classes, and I hope you enjoyed yourself! Art is an expression of our lives, our experiences, a moment, our passions, our fears, our desires, our thoughts, our rage, our consideration, all of our beauty, our conversations, our connection to others, and of course, so much more. Art - in all of its forms and expressions- is important for all of humanity.

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